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faqs_subimage.gif (4170 bytes)The following questions by buyers and sellers using this site's features, and our Muscle car Brokerage or locator services, come up often. Here's some answers that might help you better understand our services.

Classic Muscle Cars outlines tips for buyers and sellers from links at the top of each page. This FAQ section covers some of the common questions regarding our sites services and those we offer from our brick-n-mortar facilities. If you want to review our legal disclaimers for site usage and our privacy policy click here.

common questionHow do I post a Classified Ad to sell my Muscle car?
Classic Muscle Cars answersYou can browse or post free Classified Ads or those with slight cost options on our free classified page. Pick a buy or sell category and use the Post an Ad link at the top. You have to register with ePages as part of the process and have a valid e-mail address to field inquires from car shoppers. Those wanting to place paid Premier Photo Ads and Premier Plus Ads on this site and also have us develop eBay Motors and other auction Ads can click here and fill out the online form . Premier photo Ads display on this site and cost $45.00 and run for 3 months or untill the car is sold. Premier Plus Ads with optional car auction site layout and listing fee is $60.00. Each auction site publishes the fee structure of listings and auction completion charges. Visit our Fees page or e-mail us for more details.

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common question How do I send my photos and what are the size requirements?
Classic Muscle Cars answersOnce your Ad is accepted and paid for you can e-mail us your cars digital photos. Photos should not be more than 800x600 pixels (640x480 is preferred) in size and should be in the standard .jpeg format. Photos can be mailed for scanning to the address on our contacts page if you don't have a digital camera.

common questionHow do I go about using your full Muscle Car brokerage service.
Classic Muscle Cars's Muscle car classics site arranges with private parties and dealers to sell classic cars on a 6% commission basis. We field all buyer questions, can display your car in our web site showrooms and give you premier Classified Ads and auction listings as part of the service. The Premier Photo Advertising cost is the $60.00 fee and we offer buyer friendly additional services like national and international shipping, title transfers, escrow services, and monthly payment financing through our MBA members.

common questionI see you have a discussion forum. How does this work?
Classic Muscle Cars answers Our discussion forum is completely managed through Yahoo's eGroups.
It is free to join and is completely OPT-IN. Your can e-mail the entire group on any subject related to buying/selling/trading Classic Muscle cars. You can post 'want to buy' or sell hard to find parts, like a salvage yard hotline, and even discuss performance tricks, Muscle Car club news, cruises, prize events. The nice thing is this is an e-mail forum, with a log-in to see older posts, so you get answers and tips from all over the world. Opt-OUT at any time and please NO SPAMMING the board or you'll get banned. You can also post events in the forum calendar and put up photos of your cars and your hot 'friends' that enjoy them.


common questionWhat are the most valuable muscle cars?
Classic Muscle Cars answersAll muscle cars are inherently valuable. They reflect a time long ago when sheer performance mattered more than cupholders, and reputations were created and destroyed on the drag strip and at streetlights across the nation. There are a few muscle cars that either through reputation, rarity, or popularity have reached values unheard of just a few years ago. This is the list of the most valuable muscle cars. Note that these values apply to the general model and within every make/model their are rarity factors raising the prices. The value of an individual vehicle may be substantially greater or lower than these optimal prices based upon condition and originality.

Model Value
1970 Plymouth Superbird 426 Hemi $84,000
1970 Chevrolet Chevelle SS 454 LS6 Convertible $83,725
1969 Dodge Daytona 426 Hemi $79,500
1968 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500KR Convertible $69,100
1969-1970 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 Convertible $65,650
1968 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 Convertible $62,175
1965 Ford Mustang Shelby GT350 Fastback $61,275
1970 Chevrolet Chevelle SS 454 Convertible $53,625
1969 Chevrolet Camaro Yenko 427 $50,000
1969 Dodge Charger 500 w/ 426 Hemi $49,500
1970 Chevrolet Chevelle SS 454 LS6 $49,875
1970 Plymouth Superbird 440+6 $48,775
1970-1971 Plymouth 'Hemi Cuda $48,750
1969 Dodge Daytona 440 $46,900
1969 Chevrolet Chevelle Yenko 427 $44,950
1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429 $44,950
1970 Chevrolet Chevelle SS 454 $44,575
1967-1968 Chevrolet Camaro Yenko 427 $41,625

A muscle car, by the strictest definition, is an intermediate sized, performance oriented model, powered by a large factory installed V8 engine, at an affordable price. Most of these models were based on "regular" production vehicles with performance kit options.  If there was a high performance version available, it gets the credit as the Muscle car, and not the vehicle that it was based on. Examples: Buick GS, Chevrolete Chevelle SS, Dodge Charger R/T, Ford Torino/Cobra, Plymouth GTX, Plymouth Road Runner, Oldsmobile 442, Pontiac GTO

Post your want to buy or sell reques to our Buy-sell page

common questionWhat were the best muscle car engines?
Classic Muscle Cars answersThere have been many arguments over the greatest engines of the muscle car era. Some were tuned for horsepower (top speed) while others were tuned for torque (acceleration). Still others were seriously under-rated to keep a low profile (imagine that today) and keep insurance agents guessing. Here are some of the greatest engines ever installed in a muscle car. Some were mass production engines, others were true race engines quietly slipped into street cars seeking ways around the manufacturers politically correct plays to consumer advocates. For simplicity sake, they are listed by manufacturer, and in roughly chronological order.

Ford/Mercury - 427 Cammer & 428/429 Cobra Jet and 302 Boss Mustang engine

General Motors - Buick 400/455 Stage 1 -Chevrolet 409 - Chevrolet 427 -Chevrolet 327 and 302 -Chevrolet 427 ZL1 -Chevrolet 454 LS6 -Pontiac 421 Super Duty -Pontiac 428 -Pontiac 455 Super Duty

MOPAR - 413 Max Wedge -426 Max Wedge -426 Hemi - 440+6 pack

common questionCan I pay for my car with foreign currencies??

Classic Muscle Cars answersYou can pay for your Musclecar or MBA membership fee in a variety of currencies. Our site uses to securely allow foreign buyers to purchase any of our listed cars using their own currency. The $100.00 fee can easily be calculated by going to for exchange rates to see what the US dollar (USD)  purchase amount equates to your country's money rates.

Our deluxe auction Ads are automatically setup online through our alliance with These cost you just $9.98 for autoposting the special HTML enhance auction page to eBay Motors where 20 million people monthly visit to bid on items.... Click here for eBay!

Join our Free Muscle Car forum managed by Yahoo's eGroups

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Classic Muscle Cars discussion forum is dedicated to vintage Detroit Muscle cars owners. Our group caters to classic car collectors seeking to buy or sell their high performance vehicles via classified photo Ads or auction sites like eBay Motors or Post your photos or car club events here and send e-mails to the group seeking car tips, hard to find parts, buying/selling information and your Muscle Car experiences. Completely OPT-IN we do not allow spamming this forum group. Nice features outlined below and YOU manage your involvement.

Use the e-mail forum as a Musclecar parts hotline to buy/sell or trade hard to find Muscle car parts to fellow collectors. main page link
Post your Car Club events to the world in the forum calendar
Simple Upload of multiple Muscle car and Hotrod photos to share with forum members and all of Yahoo's picture search visitors.
Post buy/sell questions and hi-performance tips to fellow members who often are trained mechanics. Inquire about sales prices and collectable values on cars of interest.
Unlike a chatroom your messages are sent to all members wishing to receive them and are saved within a accessable archieve.
Share links with fellow Musclecar enthusiasts for car tips -parts -Car Clubs, Muscle Car Clubs or drag racing news.
MOPAR vs GM and Ford battles as to who is better/faster are encouraged. Heck, you can arrange friendly contests and snag a date online if your cars' HOT and your not!
Join up today and send the group your first message or read through the archieves.

Click here for the Official Woodward Ave Dream Cruise event site

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FAQ #1 What is the WDC? The Woodward Dream Cruise (WDC) is the grass roots phenomenon that has grown into the world's largest one-day automotive event. On the third Saturday in August, it attracts more than 1.5 million people and 40,000 muscle cars, street rods, custom, collector and special interest vehicles. The cars cruise a legendary 16-mile strip called Woodward Avenue in one glorious, celebratory, homage to America's love affair with the automobile. Spectators line the streets and many family-oriented amusements and attractions provide entertainment and excitement. This year marks the 10th anniversary of this event. It takes places in the nine cities that line Woodward Avenue in suburban Detroit, Michigan. for more info

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Now that you have found a muscle car to look at, here are some tips to help you buy it..... Get Answers Before You Look At It

Here are some key questions to ask the seller if they are not mentioned in the ad:
a. Is everything original? (especially the engine and powertrain)
b. Exact specifics (type of engine, transmission, major options)
c. Does it run well?
d. Any major body damage, dings, or flaws in the paint?
e. Any safety issues?
f. Any known mechanical problems?
g. Any history of accidents?
h. Does the seller have a clean title? (if not, don't even bother)
i. What is the asking price? (at least a ballpark figure)

Set A Time And Date To See The Car..The key is to set a date with the seller at your convenience without appearing too eager ("right now!") or too far in the future (when the car may be sold already). Remember that there are other buyers out there.

Do Your Homework...Buying a car is serious business. You may be about to spend a lot of money on a great unknown. Do your research. Know as much as you can about the make, model, and year of the car. The more educated you can talk about the car, the better you can bargin and the less likely the seller can pull a fast one over you. Use our forum to ask questions from those familiar with the car. Out of common courtesy, show up at the agreed time if you can arrange a viewing. If you are serious about buying, bring a friend (preferably one that knows cars). A friend can provide a much needed second opinion and drive you to the appointment, so that you can perhaps drive your new purchase home. Also, if you are serious about buying, bring cash or a cahiers deposit check.

First Impression...As in any situation, first impressions are key. Acknowledge the seller, shake hands. Treat them as more important than the car right now. This will put the seller in a good mood and will help ease the tension for the rest of the visit. Ask them about how they came to have the car, their experiences with it, and why they are selling it. Try to get a sense about their knowledge of the car and about muscle cars in general. I tend to trust sellers that know their cars a lot more than those that don't.

Look The Car Over...Now, begin to look over the car. If you have a friend, have them follow all the following steps as well. A second opinion is extremely valuable in this situation. Hopefully, you are seeing the car outdoors, in direct sunlight. Shadows and artificial lighting can hide serious flaws in the body and paint. Start by checking over the exterior. Make sure all the panels are straight. Make a note of any rust, especially below the rear windshield, and the lower edges of the fenders and doors. Check the condition of the paint and make sure the body gaps are uniform. Irregular gaps could indicate that the car was in an accident or that the frame is bent. Look at the wheels and tires. Are the wheels original? Are they damaged? How about the tires - are they bald or brand new. Check out all badging, and exterior trim pieces. These can be hard to find. Casually point out any flaws you find. Don't make the seller feel bad, just let him know that you know about them and are mentally taking them into account.

Check Under The Hood...Open the hood. Check the engine. Is it the correct one? Check for any leaks or telltale stains from leaking coolant or oil. Check the belts - are they worn? Is the battery tray rusted out? Open the doors - do they sag? Check the interior. Is the upholstery in good shape? How about the dash and instruments? Does the VIN plate look original or tampered with? Take note of any problems. Most owners pour too much money under the hood and neglect the interiors, content with ripped seats and cheap Pep Boy speakers. Interior trim pieces are tough to find, so you want one in the best condition possible. Check the carpeting, looking for water stains that might point to rusted out floor pans. Open the trunk. Did it open easily? The trunk pan is usually rusted out so be sure to check that. Check the area between the trunk and the rear windshield for rust. Check for the spare tire and jack - are they original? Close the trunk.

Start It Up...The big test, start the car up. Most muscle cars are finicky and are difficult to start when the engine is cold. Don't complain that the car doesn't start as easily as your Camry - let's face it, Carbs are not the same as Computered Controlled Electronic Fuel Injection. Pump the gas and few times and turn the key. If the engine doesn't start in 5 seconds, turn it off, wait 10 seconds and try again. Of course, if it doesn't start by the 2nd or 3rd time, this might be a problem. Once it is running, how does it sound? Give it a few shots of gas. Does the engine rev smoothly? Get out and check under the hood (you left it open, right?). Is the radiator fan spinning smoothly? Are the belts relatively quiet (no squealing sounds)? Make sure that the engine idles relatively smoothly. V8s are inherently balanced so one that makes a lot of ruckus might just be out of tune (a cheap fix) or have more serious problems. Now go around back by the exhausts. Check the exhaust coming out of the tail pipes. While pre-1977 cars don't have Catalytic converters and thus will produce visible smoke, it should be faint. Dark, black smoke indicates leaking oil in the engine or worse. Listen to the exhaust. It should be fairly even. If not, there is a leak in the exhaust system or the engine is not in tune. Close the hood.

Test Drive...Take the car for a test drive if it is possible. YOU drive it. If the seller drives, they can hide a lot of flaws. When you begin the test drive, pick a course that allows some slow and fast driving, stopping and accelerating, straights and turns. Don't give the seller a heart attack, just drive like you did for your Driver's License Test. The purpose here is not to drag race the car at every stoplight. Rather, you are paying close attention to the following details:
a. How does the car react when you push the gas pedal? Smooth? Is the power instant?
b. How does the car react when you push the brake pedal? Does it slow down smoothly?
c. Does the car drive in a straight line?
d. Do all of the accessories in the car (Air Conditioning, Power Windows, Power Locks, Convertible Top, etc.) work?
e. Are there any groans from the suspension when you take a turn?
f. Any strange odors like a dead body in the trunk...LOL?

Final Inspection...Take the car back and turn off the engine. Does it ping or make any other strange noises? Go back and check the exhausts - any strange smells?  Take one more good look at the exterior and interior of the car. Replay the test drive in your mind. Ask all of your questions now. Ask about any spare parts or tools that might come with the car. Most sellers have a garage full of parts that they were going to put on the car, but never got around to it (which is why they are selling it). Also ask for the original parts (such as factory exhaust manifolds) that they took off to put on aftermarket parts (such as headers).

The Decision...Now comes the big decision. If you decide to pass on the car, thank the seller for their time, but graciously decline. Mention why you are declining IF it is something the seller could fix. For example, point out that the car seemed to pull to the left or was leaking a red fluid. Don't say stupid stuff like you don't want the car because it is Green (you should have known that before you even got there). If you are interested in the car, start the negotiation.

13. The Negotiation and Payment....This is often the hardest part. Begin by mentioning the price in the ad, if there was one. If not, mention the going market rate for the vehicle (which you should know from the homework you did). Then deduct all the costs for work that the vehicle would need to get it to the point of "Good Condition." For example, you might say the following:
"Well, your ad mentioned a price of $10,000 but from my research, its actual value is usually closer to $9,000. However, I would need to spend about $1,000 to repaint it, $500 to replace the rear passenger quarter panel, and $500 for new tires. How about $7,000?"
Note: Be realistic. If the car is worth $7,000, don't offer $3,000. A smart seller will know that you are not serious (or trying to rip them off) and will just be insulted. If they are dumb or just plain desperate, well then, anything goes! But no matter what, bargin. A $100 drop in the price is an extra $100 to buy parts!

At this point, the seller will probably counter offer. It is human nature to compromise somewhere in the middle. Mentally set the maximum price that you will pay and stick to it. It is all too easy to overpay because you "have to have this car." If you brought a friend with you, talk it over with your friend. Have your friend play "Bad Cop" and have them keep pointing out the flaws with the car and why you shouldn't buy it (but in a nice way, of course). This helps reduce the appearance that you really do want this car (which is why you are even negotiating to begin with).

One trick I have learned is to use cash to your advantage. Let's say the seller says the price is $7,000 firm. If you brought enough cash, mention that you have $6,750 in cash right now. Show them the envelope with the cash. The sight of a lot of cash makes it really tough for the seller to say no.

Once you have agreed upon a price, you have to pay for it. If you have the cash, you can complete the transaction right now. Otherwise, you have to arrange to come back at a later time with the cash or a cashier's check. Be sure to get a verbal agreement from the seller that they will NOT sell the car to anyone else before your next meeting. Generally, the seller will insist that payment must be made within 24 hours. This shouldn't be a problem because you already know how you were going to pay for this purchase, right? When you meet again and have the funds, be sure that the seller fills out and gives you all the documents that your particular state needs. Usually this is just the Title to the car, but sometimes there are separate Transfers of Liability or other paperwork that needs to be filled out. Make sure that the VIN on the Title and Vehicle Registration match the VIN of the car. Be sure to get this all completed. DON'T buy the car if the seller doesn't have the Title, it is a "Salvage Title," the VIN doesn't match, or it looks suspect.

After completing the transaction, thank the seller. Ask again about any spare parts they might have to give you. Before you leave, check the car one last time! This is your last chance to catch any problems. If you drive it home, and discover a huge scratch on the hood - it is too late! Now get in your new (old) car, start it up, take off, and enjoy.

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